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Jewellery
is an ornamental object that women and men wear on their bodies or
clothing. It is primarily used to increase the attractiveness or status
of a person within a society or group or to visibly display the status
they have already achieved. One example is the crown jewels of the
ruling houses. Jewellery is tied to the fascination of the material on
the one hand, such as the metal with its shine or the value, colour and
cut of the gemstone used, and on the other hand to the shape of the
jewellery and the quality of the workmanship.
Ever since people have existed, they have used objects, such as shells,
to adorn themselves. Research suggests that this has been the case for
100,000 years. In the Paleolithic period, there were already necklaces
in the form of simple and multi-link necklaces. In the Stone Age,
people made their necklaces from shell and snail shells, animal teeth,
fish vertebrae and pearls. Amber was also used to make jewellery. When
it became possible to process copper and bronze into spiral rolls,
plates, beads, rings and discs, these were also used in jewelry making.
Axes and hatchets were also made from these materials. However, they
only had an ornamental function because they were too soft compared to
stone tools. Practical use could only be realized later.
The range of available materials suitable for use in jewelry making
expanded constantly. The use of rare and therefore precious materials
such as platinum, gold and silver made many pieces of jewelry a
valuable object that was also used in barter transactions. Even today,
especially in economically less developed countries, the gold jewelry
that women always wear on their bodies is considered the family's
material emergency reserve. Up until the 19th century, it was common
for fishermen and sailors to wear a gold earring. The value of this
earring was supposed to finance their Christian burial if they were to
drown and possibly be washed up on a foreign shore.
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This might interest you:
The History of Wearing Ties in the British Commonwealth and the United States
The tie, as we know it today, has become
an iconic symbol of formal attire and professionalism. Its evolution
traces back centuries, from its modest beginnings as a simple piece of
cloth to the integral accessory in both the British Commonwealth and
the United States. The history of the tie reflects broader cultural,
social, and economic changes in the Western world, shaping the fashion
landscape across different periods.
Early Origins and the Cravat
The history of neckwear dates back to
the 17th century, where the first precursor to the modern tie appeared
in Europe. The cravat, a cloth tied around the neck, originated in
France during the reign of Louis XIV (1643–1715). It is widely
believed that Croatian mercenaries, who wore cloth bands around their
necks as part of their uniform, influenced the French court. These
mercenaries were employed in France during the Thirty Years' War
(1618–1648), and their distinctive neckwear caught the attention
of the French aristocracy, including Louis XIV, who adopted it as a
fashionable accessory.
The cravat soon became a popular fashion
item in France and other European courts, including in England. In the
British Commonwealth, especially in the early 18th century, the cravat
was worn by both men and women as part of formal dress. Over time, the
cravat evolved from a simple piece of cloth to a more intricate and
decorative element, often requiring careful knotting and arranging, and
it became a symbol of elegance and refinement.
The Evolution of the Cravat into the Tie
By the late 18th and early 19th
centuries, as European fashion evolved, so did the cravat. The cravat
began to morph into a simpler, more streamlined version. During the
Regency era in England, the cravat was gradually replaced by the modern
necktie. By the mid-19th century, the cravat had effectively been
replaced by the modern tie, but elements of the cravat's design
persisted in the new style.
In the United States, the transition
from cravat to tie was similarly influenced by European trends, but
American innovations also played a key role. By the 19th century,
American entrepreneurs had begun manufacturing neckties, which were
designed for both fashion and functionality. Ties became an integral
part of men’s wardrobes, especially as the concept of the
suit—popularized by the British and American elites—took
shape. The tie became an essential part of formal wear and eventually a
signifier of professionalism and status.
The Rise of the Modern Necktie
The late 19th and early 20th centuries
marked the rise of the modern necktie. In the 1920s, the necktie began
to gain recognition as a symbol of modern masculinity. Styles such as
the wide, bold ties, often made from silk, became popular during the
Jazz Age. These ties, often featuring bright colors and patterns, were
a direct reflection of the era’s flamboyant sense of style and
individualism.
In the United States, the necktie played
a significant role in shaping American corporate culture. The necktie
became synonymous with professionalism, often worn by men in offices,
schools, and other formal settings. This association with business
attire made the necktie a mandatory item for men in the workplace
during much of the 20th century. In the British Commonwealth, the
necktie had similar cultural significance, particularly within the
military, academic institutions, and corporate environments.
Post-World War II Era and the Growth of Ties as Fashion
After World War II, the necktie became
more varied, with designers experimenting with different fabrics,
colors, and patterns. Ties were now not only a symbol of
professionalism but also a canvas for personal expression. The mid-20th
century saw the rise of iconic American and British fashion designers,
such as Brooks Brothers in the United States and Savile Row in London,
who crafted ties that were both stylish and an integral part of men's
fashion.
During the 1960s, the "mod" movement in
the UK and the rise of countercultural movements in the United States
led to experimentation with ties. Brightly colored ties, paisley
patterns, and even skinny ties became popular during this era,
reflecting changing social norms and attitudes toward formal dressing.
In the U.S., the concept of "casual Fridays" began to take hold in the
workplace, which led to a shift in how ties were perceived, with more
relaxed styles gaining popularity. This period saw a shift away from
the strictly formal attire of previous decades, but the necktie still
held significance in corporate settings.
Ties in the Modern Day: A Symbol of Tradition and Individuality
Today, the necktie remains a staple of
formal dress codes, though its role has evolved. In both the British
Commonwealth and the United States, the tie is primarily worn in
professional settings, though many workplaces have adopted more casual
dress codes, leading to a decline in everyday necktie use.
Nevertheless, the necktie is still worn for important occasions, such
as weddings, business meetings, and formal events.
In the 21st century, the tie is also a
statement of personal style and individualism. Many fashion-forward
individuals experiment with different fabrics, designs, and tying
methods, often turning the tie into an accessory that reflects their
personality. While the "business suit" and necktie combination remains
a symbol of professionalism, the necktie is increasingly seen as a
fashionable accessory that can be worn with both formal and casual
outfits.
Literature Recommendations
- "The Necktie: A Visual History" by Anne Bowerman
– This book provides an extensive look at the history and
cultural significance of the necktie, from its origins to its
modern-day status as a fashion item.
- "The History of Men's Fashion" by Nicholas Storey
– This work explores the evolution of men's clothing, including
the development of neckwear from the cravat to the modern tie.
- "Ties: A History of Fashion" by Michael B. Orenstein
– Orenstein's book examines the history of the tie from both a
fashion and social perspective, discussing how the tie became a symbol
of status and masculinity.
- "The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style" by Nicholas Antongiavanni
– While focused on the history of the suit, this book also
explores how neckties play a crucial role in formal and business attire.